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Product & Ingredient Glossary |
Acetone
Strong solvent used in nail polish remover. Appropriate only for natural nails. Contained in some astringents/toners/fresheners.
Acrylic
Sculptured nail material. Combination of a liquid and powder that is mixed to form the artificial nail.
Aesthetician
Professional who works to clean and perfect skin.
Allantoin
Known for its gentleness. A very healing, soothing, and anti-irritating ingredient. Often used in anti-acne products, after sun products, and clarifying lotions.
Algisium Complex
A natural marine-derived complex which functions as an anti-inflammatory agent.
Almond, Sweet Oil
Emollient used in lotions and creams. Known for its mildness.
Aloe Vera
Plant from which aloe gel is extracted. Known for its soothing, gentle properties. Especially good for burns and moisturizing the skin. Promotes healing and cellular renewal.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid
Any one of several natural acids (glycolic, lactic, citric, malic) obtained from fruit which assist in shedding dead skin cells. They provide the benefit of chemical exfoliation of the skin, making skin appear clearer. Solutions vary from 2% to 15% (with anything higher needing a prescription to acquire.) 8% formulas are generally recognized as being quite effective with minimal irritation. Glycolic acid is thought to be the most effective exfoliant of all the alpha hydroxy acids. (See Special Information Section for how to make a homemade AHA solution.)
Ammonium Hydroxide
When used in skin peels and hair waving and straightening, it is used to stabilize and adjust the acids.
Antibacterial
Substances that can kill bacteria and treat infections. Also used as preservatives in cosmetics.
Anti-inflammatory
Substances that can soothe irritation of the skin. Also can be the property of a substance that prevents irritation causing swelling and ill effects of toxic cosmetic ingredients.
Anti-irritant
Substances that soothe the localized/superficial inflammation of the skin that is due directly to one or more external substances.
Antioxidants
Vitamins or substances which impede oxidation or spoilage promoted by oxygen or peroxide. (See Special Information section for further information about the controversy surrounding the anti-aging effects of antioxidants and its ability to fight free-radicals.)
Antiperspirant
A product, usually containing aluminum salt, used to prevent perspiration and the odor it causes. May contain an additional deodorant, but not necessarily.
Aromatherapy
Use of essential oils fragrance for therapeutic benefits.
Astringent
A solution which removes oil from the skin; usually used after washing the face to remove any remaining traces of cleanser. Designed to dry and shrink superficial tissues by reducing water content and sometimes promotes healing of inflamed skin.
Avocado
Oil from seed and pulp used in creams, lotions, and hair preparations. Found to signigicantly increase the water soluble collagen content in the dermis.
Bentonite or Kaolin
These are clays in powders and foundations that may clog pores. Generally, these clays are used in facial masks to absorb excess facial oil. Also known as "china clay". Can promote dryness of the skin if used too frequently.
Benzoyl Peroxide
An anti-acne medication that kills acnegenic bacteria and inhibits production of oil by the sebaceous glands. Generally found in 2.5%, 5% and 10% formulas.
Beta Hydroxy Acid
Used to exfoliate epidermis of skin and prevent clogged pores. Salicylic acid is a BHT Preservative.
Botanical
Refers to a product containing plants or ingredients made from plants.
Bronzers
A makeup which makes the skin appear more tanned. Can be found in powder or cream form, not to be confused with Self Tanners which are not water soluble.
Butyl, Propyl, Ethyl, and Methyl Parabens
Synthetic preservatives used in non-protein based products.
Butylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol
Solvents used to dilute.
C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate
Emollient and provides a dry, silky feel to skin.
Calendula (aka Marigold)
Used in fresheners, soothing creams, and sensitive skin products. Sometimes used in deodorants. Some adverse skin reactions have been reported in medical literature.
Camphor
Used as an antiseptic, stimulant, and anti-inflammatory ingredient in toners, aftershaves, lipbalms, and after sun preparations.
Carrot Oil
Primarily used as a fragrance and coloring agent in cosmetics. Thought to be good for both dry and oily skin.
Castor Oil
Used in lipsticks, concealers, hair pomade, ointments, creams and lotions.
Cetyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol)
A gentle humectant, lather booster, and emulsifier. In hair products, it is used to smooth and soften the hair cuticle.
Chamomile
Used in many products for blonde hair to enhance color. Also used in a variety of cosmetics as an emollient. Anti-inflammatory, soothing agent for tender skin; also provides antioxidation.
Citric Acid
Derived from citrus fruit, it maintains pH balance, preserves, and stabilizes foam when used in cosmetics. Used in many post perm ingredients to neutralize odor.
Cleansing Creams
Contain little or no soap or detergent, usually with an oily base. Meant to be applied, then removed with wiping rather than rinsing.
Clove Oil
Used in creams and lotions as an anti-irritant.
Cocamide DEA
Either made synthetically or derived from the kernel of the coconut, it gives lather and cleans skin and hair.
Cocoa Butter
Mainly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. Well absorbed by the skin and imparts a sheen. Used in many lipsticks, soaps, and emollient creams. An acnegenic substance to some.
Collagen and Elastin
These are animal by products used in many products. As human skin ages, our own soluble collagen becomes inflexible and the skin's connective tissue becomes less moisturized naturally. The use of animal collagen and elastin to replace our own is not possible, although these ingredients have moisturizing properties. Effective in smoothing the hair's cuticle.
Comedogenic
A cosmetic preparation known to promote acne. Pore clogging.
Comfrey
Root from which allantoin is extracted. Anti-inflammatory, astringent, and emollient. Contains mucopolysaccharides.
Concealer
An opaque makeup used to cover darkness under eyes, redness of the skin, or anything irregular in the skin's color or texture. Comes in a waxy stick, cream, or opaque liquid formula.
Cornflower
Used in toners, astringents, and healing creams. Can cause photosensitivity in some people.
Cosmeceutical
While the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act does not recognize the term "cosmeceutical", the cosmetic industry has begun to use this word to refer to cosmetic products that have drug-like benefits. The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act defines drugs as those mitigate or prevent disease or that affect the structure or function of the human body. While
drugs are subject to an intensive review and approval process by FDA, cosmetics are not approved by FDA prior to sale. If a product has drug properties, it must be approved as a drug.
Cosmetics
Articles intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or alternating the appearance without affecting the body structure or function." Many cosmetics alter their advertising to meet these guidelines, such as antiwrinkle creams, since they would otherwise be considered a drug. For example, "to reduce the appearance of fine lines", whereas a drug such as Retin-A actually does reduce fine lines, and thus is actuallyaffecting the structure of the skin--not just changing its appearance.
Cream
A preparation for the skin used to impart moisture. Usually thicker and more emollient than a lotion.
Cucumber
Used in facial creams, lotions, and cleansers. Known for its astringent and soothing properties. Also an anti-inflammatory agent (slices placed over puffy eyes can reduce swelling).
Cuticle
Outermost layer of skin (aka epidermis) or the fold of skin at the base of the fingernail. Hair cuticles are the outermost layer of the hair shaft which overlap like shingles. When healthy and lying flat, these cuticles impart sheen to the hair.
Deodorant
A product used to counteract odors caused by the decomposition of sweat on the body. Contain antiseptic substances to kill bacteria and strong fragrances to mask offensive smell. (Not to be confused with antiperspirants which actually inhibit production of sweat.)
Dimethicone
Moisturizing silicone skin and hair conditioner and anti-foam ingredient.
Dimethicone Copolyol
Complex of natural silica, acts as a spreading agent for easy application of product; also functions as a moisturizer.
Echinacea
Assists immune function, anti-inflammatory.
Elder Flower
Used in eye and skin creams for its astringent properties.
Electrolysis
Destroys the hair's roots with an electric current. This is a permanent means of ridding unwanted hair.
Emulsifier
An agent used to make an emulsion, which is a mixture of liquids, minute globules of one being suspended in a second that doesn't dissolve the first.
Emollients
Ingredients that soften or smooth.
Exfoliating
A process of removing the top dead skin layers to reveal healthier, newer skin underneath. This can be done chemically with such acids as AHAs or BHAs. Physically with scrubbing grains such as apricot kernels or baking soda.
Follicle
A pore in the skin from which a hair grows.
Fragrance
Any natural or synthetic substance or substances use solely to impart an odor to a cosmetic product.
Fragrance-Free
Products so labeled may still contain small amounts of fragrances to mask the fatty odor of soap or other unpleasant odors. (There is no official governmental definition for this term.)
Ginkgo Biloba
Anti-inflammatory agent.
Glyceryl Monostearate
Emulsifier; also pearlescent agent.
Glycerin
A humectant which absorbs moisture from the air to keep hair and skin moist. It is also used as an emollient, lubricant, emulsifier and diluting agent in cosmetics.
Grapefruit Seed Extract
Natural oil used as a cosmetic preservative.
Honey
Humectant for skin and hair.
Humectant
An ingredient in skin or hair products that draws moisture from the air to moisturize.
Hypoallergenic
Cosmetics that are less likely to cause allergic reactions. There are no Federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term "hypoallergenic".
Iron Oxides
Inorganic pigments approved for cosmetic use, including the eye area.
Isopropyl Lanolate, Myristate, and Palmitate
Synthetic moisturizers.
Jojoba Oil
Contains superior properties to keep skin soft. It is beneficial to acne prone skin and dry hair.
Kaolin
A white clay used for absorbing impurities from the skin.
Lanolin
A natural extract of sheep wool used as a moisturizer which is a common cause of allergic reactions, but is rarely used in pure form.
Lauramide DEA
Emulsifier and foam booster.
Lavender Extract
Anti-inflammatory, soothing agent.
Liposomes
Microscopic sacs manufactured from natural or synthetic fatty substances which include phospholipids (components of cell membranes). When properly mixed with water, phospholipids can "trap" any substance that will dissolve in water or oil. Manufacturers say that liposomes act like a delivery system, depositing product ingredients into the skin. When the liposomes "melt" the ingredients, such as moisturizers, are released.
Matrix
Spot under the skin of the fingernail mantle where the nail plate begins to grow.
Melanin
The pigment which naturally colors the hair and skin.
Methylisothiazolinone
Antimicrobial, a preservative.
Mica (iridescent)
Approved for use in cosmetics, including the eye area. Natural Ingredients extracted directly from plants, earth minerals, or animal products as opposed to being produced synthetically. When used in a cosmetic context there is no regulation for the use of this word.
Nettle
A botanical additive used in hair and skin products, particularly eye creams and treatments for the scalp.
Non-Comedogenic
Substances that are less likely to clog pores or promote acne. (There is no official government definition for this term).
Oat Derived Polysaccharide
Natural complex derived from oats that functions to assist the body's immune system, to maintain healthy skin.
Oat Oil
Powerful antioxidant and emollient; provides deep antioxidant activity.
PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic Acid)
A substance which absorbs UV light, acting as a sunblock.
Paraguay Tea
Augments action of theophylline, also contains antioxidant to help maintain healthy skin.
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Emollient and co-emulsifier.
Petroleum
Mixture of hydrocarbons with similar properties as mineral oil. Industrially it is used as a grease component. (Example: Vaseline is a petroleum jelly.)
Phenyl Trimethicone
Emollient, moisturizer.
Polyquaternium-37
Emulsifier.
Polysorbates
Emulsifier.
Propylene Glyco
Combination of glycerin and water, a humectant in cosmetics. The most common moisture-carrying vehicle in cosmetics other than water.
Propylparaben
Preservative.
Quaternium-15
Preservative used in cosmetics. Fights bacteria.
Retin-A
Vitamin A derivative that acts as a topical anti-acne treatment. Additionally found to be beneficial in removing fine lines from facial skin. Creates photosensitivity. Available by prescription only.
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A)
Essential skin nutrient necessary for healthy skin maintenance and repair.
Rosemary Extract
Natural antioxidant.
Sebum
Natural oils in the skin and scalp that lubricate and protect.
Silicone
A compound of silicon used in shine-enhancing hair products to seal the cuticle of hair and in many oil-free cosmetics.
Sodium Chloride
Common table salt used as an astringent/antiseptic.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
A white powder used as a detergent, emulsifier, and surfectant in cosmetics. A very strong degreaser. Also used as a water "softener".
SPF
An acronym for "Sun Protection Factor" ranging from 2 to 45 with 2 being the least protection and 45 the most.
Stearic Acid and Stearyl Alcohol
Used for its emollient properties and as a moisturizing ingredient.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
Antioxidant vitamin, emollient and moisturizer.
Transparent Soap
Superfatted soap with a high glycerin content. Usually used for sensitive and normal-to-oily skin.
Triethanolamine
pH adjuster used mostly in transparent soap.
Vitamin E Acetate
Antioxidant.
Vitamins
Foods containing vitamins A, D, E, K, and some of the B complex group are necessary in diets to maintain healthy skin and hair.
Zinc Oxide
An oxide of zinc, an astringent.
Zinc Stearate
Used in powder to improve texture and to lubricate.
Source: salonweb.com, founded by Mike Trobee.
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